Champagne-Ardenne

The varied landscapes of Champagne-Ardenne include dense forests, vineyards and winding rivers. The whole area is dotted with fascinating ancient churches and castles, towns and villages.

Situated on the flatlands of Champagne are the most northerly vineyards in France, where special processing turns the light, dry wine into the world-renowned 'le Champagne'. The name signifies the wine has been produced in the region; sparkling wine from anywhere else in the world must take a different name. Reims and Epernay are the centres for the wine trade, with many of the largest Champagne houses setting their headquarters here.

The region is essentially a place of rural peace, with chalky rolling fields, although there is some heavy industry in the north. This north-eastern slice of France has seen many European battles, and the hilly terrain and deep forests of the Ardennes gave some advantage to the Resistance fighters of the last war when Ardennes was annexed to Germany. Its main city of Charleville-Mezieres was two distinct towns lying on either side of the Meuse River until their amalgamation in 1966, and each retains its individuality.

It’s impossible to mention the Champagne region without referring to its legendary wines; the cork popping from a bottle of Bollinger, or any of its bubbly counterparts, is a sound internationally associated with celebration. The magnificent Champagne houses sit amid a dazzling white chalk landscape stitched with green vineyards, and the town of Epernay nestles in the heart of it all, its streets lined with 19th-century townhouses.

There’s more to the region than sparkling treats, however. Reims is the historic centre, with its spectacular French Gothic cathedral, an intricate masterpiece that took three centuries to realise. Adjacent is the Palais du Tau, once the residence of the French kings and now a museum containing statues and tapestries. Its oldest monument is the Mars Gate, named for the temple to Mars that once stood there. It is believed to date back to the third century and was one of four Roman gates around the city. The medieval town of Troyes in Aube is also delightful, with its Colombage houses and narrow streets.

Walking and cycling around Champagne is a guaranteed pleasure, not only for the tasting and cellar tour opportunities but also for its green landscapes and rich history.

Places of interest

Charleville-Mezieres: Arcaded Palace Ducale, similar in style to the Place des Vosges in Paris; birthplace of the poet Arthur Rimbaud.

Chalons-sur-Marne: Perfect Gothic-style cathedral with 12th-century tower.

Épernay: Home of Champagne production. Guided tours and tastings are available at some of the larger Champagne houses.

Reims: 13th-century Gothic cathedral. In 406, Clovis the first king of France was baptised here and the kings of France from Louis V11 to Charles X were crowned here.

Troyes: Ancient capital of the Champagne region with a beautifully preserved city centre with a Gothic cathedral, dozens of churches and 15th-century houses; a system of boulevards shaped like a Champagne cork; Musée d’Art Moderne including works by Degas and Gaugin.

Cuisine of the region

Andouillettes de Troyes: chitterlings sausage made from pork and onions and seasoned with herbs.

Madeleine de Commercy: small, shell-shaped, buttery pastries with orange flavouring.

Flamiche aux Maroilles/Goyere: a hot creamy tart based on local cheese.

Biscuits roses: traditional pink biscuits made with eggs, flour and sugar, originally baked to accompany Champagne.