Poitou-Charentes

On the Atlantic coast, between the châteaux of the Loire Valley and the Bordeaux vineyards, lies Poitou-Charentes, one of the sunniest parts of the French western coast. Its mild climate, with 2,250 hours of sunshine per year, makes it popular with visitors from early spring to late autumn.

Greeting the Atlantic Ocean with miles of sandy shoreline and vast stretches of oyster beds, Charente is one of the most visited areas of France. Here, the sun shines warmly and brightly; children play on the beaches, and port towns such as La Rochelle combine picturesque historical centres with fine restaurants and modern shops. Off the coast are enchanting islands, the most popular of which are the Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oleron, which are best explored in early summer before the crowds arrive and possess plenty of cycle paths that are ideal for leisurely exploration.

Away from the coast, Charente is noticeably quieter, offering a different cultural experience. Pretty villages reveal a sleepier side to the region; with its ruined castle, arched bridge and prehistoric rock carvings, Angles-sur-l’Anglin is a real treasure, while the fortifications and abbey at Nouaille-Maupertius hark back to a more restless era. Brandy connoisseurs shouldn’t miss the chance to discover Cognac, its white stone buildings dazzling against a blue sky. The distilleries can be found in the old town, alongside historical houses that line the cobbled streets.

Charente is a paradise for walking and cycling, particularly out of high season when the sun’s heat bears less intensity and the main attractions are less busy.

Three hundred miles of coastline with fine sandy beaches backed by fragrant pine forests, lively resorts such as La Rochelle and Royan, and the islands of Oléron, Aix and Ré attract many holidaymakers, particularly the French themselves. The scenery inland is in marked contrast: vast horizons and wooded valleys, the vineyards of Cognac, the Poitou fens and Marais Poitevin, the soothing tranquillity of canals, the valley of Vienne and the foothills of Charente.

The region is renowned as the home of Cognac – such famous names as Martell, Hennessy and Rémy Martin line the river Charente around the towns of Cognac and Jarnac where the spirit is distilled. The capital of the region and capital of the Vienne département is the city of Poitier. Situated on high ground at the confluence of the Clain and Boivre rivers, the city commands the so-called gate of Poitou, a gap 44 miles (71 km) wide between the mountains south of the Loire River and the Massif Central that serves as the connecting link between northern and southern France.

The region’s capital, Poitiers, is one of France’s oldest cities and sits on a hilltop overlooking the River Clain. Its historic centre has a wealth of Romanesque art and ancient buildings. In complete contrast, the technological theme park, Futuroscope, is just 8 km. away, and with some 3 million visitors annually is among the top 20 visitor attractions in France.

Places of interest

Angoulême: Hilltop town surrounded by ramparts, cathedral, Renaissance château.

Cognac: The most celebrated ‘eau de vie’ in the world; cellars; Valois castle.

Marais Poitevin: Marshes also known as the ‘Green Venice’.

Poitiers: Palais de Justice; Notre Dame la Grande Romanesque church; old city.

La Rochelle: Port; Porte de la Grosse Horloge (clock gate); Museum of the New World.

Saint Savin: 17th-century abbey; mural painting.

Cuisine of the region

Fish predominates, both fresh water (eel, trout, pike) and sea water (shrimps, mussels, oysters).

Bouilliture (bouilleture): Eel stew with shallots and prunes in Sauvignon white wine.

Boulaigou: Thick sweet or savoury pancake.

Bréjaude: Cabbage, leek and bacon soup.

Cagouilles: Snails from Charente.

Casserons en matelote: Squid in red wine sauce with garlic and shallots.

Farcidure: A dumpling (poached or sautéed).

Farci Poitevin: Paté of cabbage, spinach and sorrel, encased in cabbage leaves.

Tourteau Fromage: Cake baked with sugar, eggs, flour and goat’s cheese and having a unique caramelised top.