Home to some of Europe’s greatest rivers, there’s something particularly captivating about the rivers of France. There’s a great drama about some of them – the magnificent château at Chenonceaux spanning the Cher, the deep gorges of the Verdon, creating Europe’s version of the Grand Canyon, or the bustling banks of the Seine running through the heart of Paris – all are unforgettable.
Many of France’s best campsites are located along river banks; more often than not, these rivers are smaller and less well known – but are ideal for the simple pleasures of safely splashing around on a hot day or maybe embarking on a family canoeing trip.
Rivers have shaped France. Much of its history is inextricably linked with its rivers. The great castles of Castelnaud and Beynac, for example, are powerful symbols of the Hundred Years' War, facing each other across the Dordogne. The English held Castelnaud whilst the French took up residence in Beynac – and a stand-off ensued which lasted, well, for a long, long time!
Although less showy than the Dordogne, the Lot is undeniably a major river, flowing from the Cévennes through to the Garonne, a distance of over 480km. The Lot’s most scenic section passes through the delightful village of St Cirq Lapopie (officially, one of ‘Les plus beaux villages de la France’), perched on a steep cliff 100m above the river. St Cirq is also a staging post on the classic pilgrim’s route to Santiago de Compostela. From St Cirq, the pilgrims (and the river) continue westward through vineyards to the medieval town of Cahors, passing below its imposing Pont Valentré before entering the town.
The Loire is France’s longest river, rising in the Ardèche and finally meeting the sea at St. Nazaire (Loire Atlantique), some 1,012 km away. Its classic section, the ‘Jardin de la France’ stretches from Orléans to Angers, with dozens of fine châteaux lining up along its banks. At its western end, Angers is a fine city and home to a stunning château, one of the Loire’s finest, overlooking the river and housing the awe-inspiring 14th-century Apocalypse tapestry.
To the west in the Medoc lie arguably France’s greatest vineyards, stretching along the banks of the Garonne. There are no fewer than 1,500 vineyards here, including Mouton Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and countless other premier league châteaux. The vineyards’ close proximity to the Garonne is no accident, providing an ideal trade route with Great Britain - and so our love affair with claret began.
Further south, the vast Pont d’Arc towers above the Ardèche – this is surely one of the best spots in Europe for canoeing. In this region of superlatives, the nearby Caverne du Pont d’Arc, a UNESCO world heritage site, is the oldest known painted cave in the world. The cave is closed to the public, but it’s now possible to visit a superb replica (one of the world’s largest replica caves) just a few miles from the original cave. This state-of-the-art attraction houses over 1,000 painstakingly prepared paintings.
The gorges of the River Loup, although undeniably less well-known than those of the Ardèche or Verdon, are well worth discovering. Just 30 minutes from the Riviera’s sunny beaches, much of the Loup is made up of cascading waterfalls and deep pools of crystal clear water – perfect for cooling off under the Mediterranean sun. The origin of its name is not fully documented – a ‘loup’ is a wolf, but in Provence may also be a bass and given the voracity of this fish, this may be the more likely origin.
And lastly – The Seine. Still an important commercial waterway, with great barges meandering through the heart of the city, the Seine has captured the imagination of poets, philosophers, artists and tourists. The banks of the Seine are delightful spots to stroll, cycle or even sunbathe. You can browse the booksellers’ stands on the Quai du Louvre, relax in one of the beautifully tended gardens or enjoy a classic tour of Paris on a bâteau mouche.
Fun Fact!
The banks of the Seine in Paris have been classified as a UNESCO world heritage site, and, in summer months, are transformed into Paris-Plage, complete with tons of sand and full-size palm trees. Paris also boasts no less than 37 bridges traversing the Seine.
Following a canal through France is an enjoyable and relaxing way to explore the country and get right into the heart of the culture and the way of life, which makes France the wonderful place it is.
France has thousands of kilometres of canals crisscrossing right through the country, the majority of which have towpaths running alongside. These flat paths make fantastic cycle routes, often travelling between main cities as, of course, the canals were originally built in the 17th – 19th centuries to transport goods.
But why cycle the canals? Well, for one, canals generally are built on a flat level, so it makes it a gentle, easy ride; you can take your time and cycle at your own leisure without feeling like you have to train for months to prepare yourself for the route!
Plus – it’s different. It gets you right to the heart of nature, tree-lined paths surrounded by the calm, lapping water; what more could you want from a holiday? Typically, a canal cycling holiday will take you past locks, through tunnels, over bridges and past villages and towns which are largely free of tourists; it’s undiscovered France!
Below are some of the canals which are some of the most picturesque, most exciting to travel along, and our favourites too!
This canal was made famous by Rick Stein in his TV series when he cruised the length of the canal, visiting sights along the way and cooking wonderful meals. This canal has its source in Toulouse and is a massive engineering feat spanning over 240 km before running into the Mediterranean. Of all the river tourism in France, one-fifth will visit the Canal du Midi, and it’s not hard to see why.
Some of the top sites to see along the way include the fortified city of Carcassonne, a wonderful example of a medieval town which has the longest city wall in Europe.
Other must-see sights include the hilltop town of Béziers, also known as the wine capital of the Languedoc and Narbonne, with the largest cathedral in Southern France; it was the first city outside of Italy to be colonised by the Romans.
The canal runs for 180 km linking the Loire to the Seine, and now is exclusively for the use of leisure boats, but was originally for the transportation of timber and then other important goods such as grain and stone.
There are some fascinating sights to see along this route, including the historic city of Auxerre and Clamecy. If wine is your thing, then you are in luck, as there are plenty of wine villages along the route with wine cellars and caves just waiting to be explored.
Fields and forests are typical of this route, and there are lots of medieval castles and churches. At one point, the canal disappears under the ground, and there’s an impressive sight known as the ladder of Sardy, 16 locks within 3km; all in all, a picturesque canal to cycle along.
This is a really scenic canal which runs through the Alsace region, linking the Saône to the Rhine. It crosses the Doubs valley and the Haute Alsace, as well as a second branch which reaches Strasbourg.
The scenery is ever-changing, from meadows and fields to forests. Some of the route will leave you in no doubt that this is the Alsace, and you can cycle alongside thatched houses and pretty villages; with plenty of nature to see, you are in for a treat.
Ben Tully
Visual Design & Content Creation
Ben deals with all things design, working on the visual design of our annual guides, Destinations magazine, information leaflets, social media and email campaigns, and much more across the Alan Rogers, Rallies and Worldwide brands. He also produces written content for our blogs alongside our other contributors.
