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Contrasts of Catalonia

A coastal journey from France to Spain

24 August 2022
Read time: 1m 50s

As you might guess, we love France. We love all the obvious things, of course: the Bordeaux wine, the super-ripe Brie, the garlic and the Gallic shrug. We love the nonchalance, the étiquette, the joi de vivre and the je ne sais quoi.

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And there’s more: we love the châteaux, the 2CV, the mercurial rugby and the pop music. Actually not so much that last one. But we also like to follow the lesser-known routes to discover new aspects we have not come across before.

Not long ago, we ventured down one of these rabbit holes and found ourselves over the Spanish border in Catalonia. We were smitten and immediately decided to do something about it. We wanted to put together an itinerary that showcased the best of Catalonia while offering something rather different to anything to be found in France.

Welcome to Catalonia

Spain has long been a popular destination for holidaymakers. With an enviable sunshine record, fabulous food and wine, dizzying culture and more dizzying fiestas, Spain is always welcoming.

In the northeast corner of Spain, Catalonia more or less has its own identity – to the point where it is more like a country within a country. Wealthy, culturally rich and cosmopolitan, it is best known for its sunny beach resorts on the Costa Brava and the Costa Dorada. Catalonia also has a long tradition of the arts: artists like Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró were born here, while Gaudi and Picasso are both associated with Barcelona.

Cadaques, a small town on the Costa Brava
Cadaques

But it’s a region of variety too, and locals will enjoy informing you how you can ski in the morning and hit the beach in the afternoon.

The Costa Brava nudges up to the French border and is one of Spain’s less visited localities, with dense forests that trickle down to the coast, where you’ll find secret little bays and hidden coves as you explore the region.

Along the way, you’ll come across pretty little fishing villages with jaunty boats and busy quaysides. And you’ll be immersed in a long, colourful history of fortified villages and crumbling castles rubbing shoulders with the artistic influences of renowned artists like Matisse, Dalí and others.

Five reasons we love Catalonia

The Artists
Collioure at night

1. Collioure

On the Vermillion Coast in the southern corner of Pyrenées-Orientales, Collioure has always attracted artists such as Picasso, Derain, Matisse and Charles Rennie Mackintosh.  It features a pretty harbour dominated by the Château Royal.

Whilst today Collioure sits in France, it has historically been part of old 'Northern Catalonia'

The City

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Gaudi's Barcelona

2. Barcelona

For its vibrant atmosphere, world city status and its magnificent architecture: Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia is an iconic sight and, in a rather different way, so is the Nou Camp, home of the Barcelona football team. 

Both are temples, in their own way.

The Food
Crema Catalana, typical dessert of the region. Photo credit: foodlovertour.com

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3. Crema catalana

Some might say this is the Catalan version of crème brûlée. Those who know better would say crème brûlée is the French version of crema catalana. 

Both are similar, but this introduces a delicate hint of lemon (sometimes orange) zest to cut through the rich creaminess.

The Mountains
Spanish Pyrenees. Photo credit: aragonactive.com

4. The Pyrenees

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Just three hours or so from Barcelona, the majestic Pyrenees are revered for their brooding presence and charming valley villages set alongside tumbling rivers. 

A wonderful open-air playground for getting away from it all.

The Culture
Flag of Catalonia

5. The Catalan language

Not, as many people think, a Spanish dialect, Catalan stems from the Roman legions who occupied the Tarragona region. 

It is spoken by over nine million people worldwide (four million speak it as a first language). But try as you might, it does not come easily to a passing tourist!

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Campsites on this route
Camping l’Amfora
Michelle, Josep and their daughter run this spacious, friendly site, which is always a popular destination. It is spotlessly clean and well-maintained, and the owners operate the site in an environmentally friendly way. Eight hundred seventy-two level grass pitches (720 for touring units) are laid out in a grid system, all with 10A electricity.
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Camping Las Dunas
Las Dunas is an extensive, impressive and well-organised resort-style site with many on-site activities and an ongoing programme of improvements. The site has direct access to a superb sandy beach stretching for nearly a kilometre, with a windsurfing school and beach bar. There is also a much-used, huge swimming pool, plus a large double pool for children.
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Camping Treumal
This beautiful terraced site has been developed on a hillside around the beautiful gardens of a large, spectacular estate house close to the sea. The floral displays in summer are quite something. The house is the focus of the site's excellent facilities, including a superb restaurant with terraces overlooking two tranquil beaches protected in pretty coves. Several excellent walking and cycling trails lead from the campsite entrance and invite guests to explore this rural hinterland.
Camping Solmar
The Ribas family has run Camping Solmar for over 40 years, and a warm welcome awaits you. The well-equipped site is located 150 metres from a sandy beach in the busy resort of Blanes and is sprinkled with palm trees. The accessible, shaded pitches are 65-85 sq.m., and all have 6A electricity connections. On-site amenities include an attractive restaurant, bar, terrace, and a central swimming pool complex with islands and bridges.
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Vilanova Park
Sitting on the terrace in front of the restaurant – a beautifully converted Catalan farmhouse dating from 1908 – it isn't easy to believe that in 1982, this was still a farm with few trees and known as Mas Roque (literally, Rock Farm). Since then, the imaginative planting of thousands of trees and gloriously colourful shrubs have made this large campsite most attractive. It has an impressive range of high-quality amenities and facilities open all year.
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Camping La Torre del Sol
A pleasant tree-lined approach road gives way to avenues of palms as you arrive at Torre del Sol. This large, well-designed site occupies a good position in southern Catalunya with direct access to a 800m. long soft sand beach.
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Naturista El Templo del Sol
El Templo del Sol is a large, luxurious, terraced naturist site with a distinctly Arabesque feel and superb buildings in Moorish style. The owner has designed the magnificent main turreted building at the entrance with fountains and elaborate Moorish arches.